One of the highlights is a trip to Fagerdalen; an old seter, or mountain outfarm, where food is still made according to traditional methods. Traditionally, the seter is where farm animals were brought in the summer, for people and animals to benefit from the long days that followed harsh winters. The owner, Anne Lise, shows us around and explains how this farm has been in her family for 300 years. They run a sort of open farm in the summer, as well as a guesthouse, and produce and sell traditional cheese. We try her sour cream porridge (rommegrot), which it has to be said is not a great success with the kids – but the animals are.
The kids also enjoy the battle with very wet elements on our first ever rafting trip. My son describes it as “the best roller coaster ever” – actually, it is much more fun and a lot wetter. The rubber dinghy seems a very flimsy protection against the swirling river, but in the capable hands of the guide it’s exhilarating but never actually scary. I should mention that our trip is labelled “Family”; you can also choose “Normal” and “Extreme” – undoubtedly for the more adventurous!
All the fresh air sharpens the appetite, and on the days where we do not come across remote mountain cafes, rucksacks filled with picnic lunches are a highlight. Local salami and cheese, followed by sweet strawberries becomes our staple diet. Dinner is eaten outside our cabin while the sun does not set. We eat, drink, and talk long into the bright night. No restaurant can compete with our view, which regularly includes reindeer in the distance.
This choice of holiday probably reveals my Norwegian roots. Old cabins like ours are dotted all around Norway’s vast forests and mountains, scattered on thousands of tiny island along the long coastline. In the more remote mountains, hostel-type lodges are open to everyone on an honesty-basis. It seems an accepted fact that getting away from cities, and noise, and crowds is good for the soul. Norwegians by and large are not great churchgoers, but on their days off you find them worshipping nature on skies, in boats or in comfortable, well-worn walking shoes. You can do worse than joining them.
How to get there
Geilo, which is the nearest village to where we were based, is close to Hallingskarvet and Hardangervidda – mountain landscapes that offer easy terrain, ideal for walking tours. There is a network of marked paths that connect mountain lodges where you can stay – some self-service, some staffed. These are simple but offer good quality accommodation. Traditional log cabins are also widely available for rent. The local tourist office, or visitnorway.com, provides excellent information and maps of both areas (look for Geilo and Hallingskarvet walking maps).
Geilo is a small village with all amenities; shops, restaurants and expensive hotels. Eidsfjord, Ullensvang and Odda are other gateways to this area, and offer similar services. All are within a 3-hour scenic drive from Oslo.
Other activities on offer here are fishing, hunting, reindeer stalking and moose safari – a chance to see some magnificent animals up close. Glacier walking tours are also available; day trips to Hardangerjokulen are arranged daily in July and August. If you want to try rafting, contact Geilo turistinfo (www.geilo.no), where you will also find information about other activities in the area. If you would like guided walking tours, local mountain guides arrange trip with small groups. For more information on this, and most other aspects of walking in Norway, go to www.turistforeningen.no